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Where Else But Vail?
December 17, 2009 by Fractional & Shared Ownership Property News & Reviews · Leave a Comment
Not long ago, during a particularly miserable day of skiing at Vail, I was indirectly informed of just how absolutely
wonderful a day of skiing at Vail really is.
The sky was hopelessly overcast, layer upon layer of gray that simply would not allow the sun to shine through. The snow was crusty at best, icy at worst. And it was beyond cold. The needle of the thermometer at the lift station struggled to push past the 10-degree mark. I was on the mountain with my friend,Michael, and we were about to call it a day. It was 10:30 in the morning.
After deciding to take one more ride up before skiing down to the Village, we boarded the Northwoods Express Lift and tucked our faces as far into our jackets as possible to brace against the biting wind.
Just as I was about to question why exactly we had chosen to suffer through another run, I heard a voice say, “Great day isn’t it, fellas?” It caught me by surprise not only because of the sentiment, but because I knew that it wasn’t
Michael speaking, and up to that point I had been so focused on keeping myself warm that I hadn’t even noticed that somebody else had gotten on the chairlift with us. I looked over to the gentlemen and smiled, “I’m not so sure, actually.”
“Oh, no. This is great stuff,” he said in his noticeable British accent. “Don’t have anything like all this back home.” He gestured with his arms – at the mountains, the trees, all of it.
“Where’s home?” I asked. “London. So I come to America to ski every winter. And if you’re going to travel to North
America to ski, why go anywhere else?”
The Place to Ski (or Snowboard)
I thought about his rhetorical query as Michael and I snaked our way down the mountain, and while I can’t say the weather improved or the snow got any better for our last run that morning, my attitude sure improved. No, the immediate circumstances weren’t great, but those sorts of things are always relative – one skier’s unacceptable crusty conditions are another skier’s “popcorn” snow dreams, or something like that. Ultimately, I decided that the fine old chap had it right: If you’re traveling to ski or snowboard – whether it’s from across the pond or merely across state lines – Vail, Colorado, is the place to be. Even if Mother Nature is having the occasional bad day.
For starters, Vail is huge. It’s 5,289 ridable acres to be exact. That’s a tough number to comprehend, especially in terms of how it translates into actual runs, but suffice it to say that if you’re in town for a week, and you don’t
want to navigate the same run more than once, you won’t have to.
Most likely, though, you’ll have the opposite problem. You’ll find a favorite downhill bomber or a stretch of quad-straining moguls or a steep and deep bowl and you’ll fall in love, and you won’t want to leave it behind in order
to scope out all the other accessible terrain. Trust me, I know this from experience. I’ve spent days in China Bowl consumed with picking the perfect line down Dragon’s Teeth or through Jade Glade.
But I also know that visitors would be wise to explore all the other options. If you’re looking for beginner runs, you’ll want to stick to the front side. Flap Jack is a long, mellow cruiser and Swingsville is perfect if you’d like to spend
your day at the top of the mountain.
It takes a little more effort to get to Blue Sky Basin (up the front side, down the back, and then back up a different peak), but it’s well worth the trouble. There’s a nice mix of intermediate and advanced runs, which makes it a great place for groups of skiers of varying skill levels to challenge themselves individually while still riding together. Gliding through the trees of Champagne Glade (advanced) and In The Wuides (intermediate) right off of Earl’s Express Lift is wonderful fun, and these trails tend to be underutilized by the majority of Blue Sky Basin-goers.
Situated between the front side and Blue Sky Basin, Vail’s famous Back Bowls are a powderlover’s Shangri-La. They also are a natural feature with which other resorts simply cannot compete. Sun Down, Sun Up, Tea Cup, China, and Siberia bowls combine to provide more than 3,000 sprawling acres of mostly wideopen ski and snowboard terrain that is without question the heart and soul, and backbone, of Vail. Indeed, there are very few feelings in the recreational activities realm that can match the anticipation of standing at the edge of Genghis Khan (or any of the other runs) and steeling your nerves against what you’re about to voluntarily do or the exhilaration of actually dropping into the bowl and reaching terminal velocity before making your first turn or the satisfaction of looking back from where you just came after negotiating the seemingly vertical wall of snow.
It’s a rush. There’s just no other way to say it, and at Vail the opportunities for sudden and generous spikes in your adrenaline are essentially endless.
After the Après
Also nearly limitless are the possibilities for unwinding after a day on the slopes. Though, there is a certain “science” to doing it properly. Step one is to pick a quick and easy après establishment near the base of the hill. The ski runs will naturally funnel you down to either Vail Village or Lionshead. Both of these gathering areas have plenty of options for grabbing some snacks and beverages while still outfitted in your ski boots.
One of my favorite spots is Garfinkel’s in Lionshead. It’s a laidback joint with a local’s vibe and a fabulous sun deck that’s ideal for people watching. Order the ahi sashimi appetizer and potato skins and a round of drinks for the table, and then just sit back and enjoy the view while telling stories about how you went mach two all the way down
Genghis Khan.
You’ll probably be tempted to order more food (and the hamburgers are top notch) when your buddy starts to recount his adventures, but resist and instead head back to your resort for a soak in the hot tub before freshening up for a
night out on the town.
Yes, “a night out on the town,” you read that correctly. See, as famous as Vail is for the skiing, the nightlife is just as essential to the overall experience. And it all starts with dinner. The selection of restaurants is as well rounded as most major cities so whatever it is you’re hungry for – from Jaegerschnitzel at Pepi’s to elk carpaccio and potato crusted trout filets at Kelly Liken –you’ll have no trouble finding a suitable eatery to satiate your specific gastronomical cravings – or to satisfy the ones you didn’t even know you had.
One sudden urge you might not know you have until you’re watching it happen is dancing the night away at Vail’s best live act. Yeah, I know, your legs are tired and you’ve got another big day tomorrow, but walk up Bridge Street and take a peek through the large front windows of The Red Lion. You’ll probably spy a raucous crowd whooping and hollering and soaking up a special blend of high altitude revelry: the Phil Long show.
Phil is co-owner of the popular restaurant and bar, but during the winter months, every Wednesday through Saturday from 9:00 to 11:00 p.m., he puts down his business ledger and picks up his guitar … and puts on one whale of a show. He plays everything from classic rock covers to his own versions of contemporary pop radio hits. Between songs he exchanges lighthearted banter with the regulars and repeat guests and adds a bit of humor when the opportunity arises.
To call Phil a crowd pleaser is a vast understatement. His audience is continuously laughing and singing along to
their favorite tunes. In fact, when viewed from the street, through those big teasing windows, it’s a scene that’s nearly impossible to resist. Which means that you might as well head inside and enjoy the rest of your evening at The Red Lion.
But when Phil shuts the music down, it’s probably best that you call it a night, too. After all, the lifts open at 9:00 a.m. And if you’re going to travel to ski, where else but Vail would you want to wake up bright and early to make first tracks?
By Lon Winters
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