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Scaling The Alpine Heights
August 20, 2009 by Fractional & Shared Ownership Property News & Reviews · Leave a Comment
With the fresh clean air that only an alpine setting can provide and a rich heritage Salzburg, Austria’s fourth largest city, provides Sarah Lee with a visually stunning visit.
As I strolled Salzburg’s broad boulevards it was easy to see why in 1997 UNESCO declared it as a World Heritage Site. The old town, Altstadt, has been wonderfully nurtured and preserved and contains the
most beautiful baroque architecture.
Every narrow street and passageway affords a glimpse into an age long since past with ornate signs hanging over quaint little shops. Its spacious squares and courtyards have statues and fountains recording Salzburg’s history. But dominating this mountainside huddle of a city is the magnificent Festund Hohensalzburg castle. Built in 1077, this medieval marvel doesn’t just envelope you in a rich historical embrace but provides glorious views of the city on one side and the Alps as they race to the heavens on the other.
This view and perhaps the crispness of the air had me mesmerised for a moment and I paused to breathe it all in. The mix of bright sunlight danced with puffs of cloud over a patchwork of green fields, yellow wild flowers and the white of ice-capped mountains.
It’s at this point that I have to mention the Sound of Music. After all it was within these incredible peaks and valleys that it was filmed and Julie Andrews sang about the hills being alive.
Beloved the world over the film, according to local guide and human encyclopaedia Jurgen, isn’t very popular in Austria. “Austrians don’t know the film that well and just don’t see why there is so much fuss,” he said.
For many though this is one of the main reasons to visit Salzburg and even though I’m not a huge fan of the film, I’d recommend a Sound of Music tour to anyone.
Joining my fellow tour-goers, some of them almost yodelling with excitement, I climbed aboard a bus in the centre of town for the four hour journey into musical film history. Jurgen provided a wealth of information
about where scenes in the film were shot and offered enough set secrets to leave fans reliving their favourite moments. I particular enjoyed looking across the lake to the house in Leopoldskron, on the edge of
Salzburg, where Maria and the children fell into the water.
As we continued our journey through the Alps, Jurgen played the film’s soundtrack and we watched the Austrian countryside float by. Vista after breathtaking vista of lush, mountain meadows and soaring Alpine peaks were dotted with picture-perfect A-frame houses sporting floral window boxes. The only thing
missing from this chocolate-box image were cuckoos popping out of top-floor windows.
As the sun danced along the Unterberg Mountains that straddle the Austrian and German border, and then darted down through the deep pine covered valleys we continued past tranquil glacial lakes and
picturesque villages.
As midday approached we stopped at Mondsee to visit the Collegiate Church, the setting for Maria and Captain Von Trapp’s wedding. Its architecture revealed the sort of detail only a proud craftsman could create. And as I walked down the famous aisle, the church’s size and beauty reminded me of one
of the film’s most famous scenes.
On my return to Salzburg, feeling energised by my day trip I leapt from the bus and headed across the road to the magnificent Mirabell Gardens. Another setting for one of the most famous songs in the film – Do-Re-Mi – the lovely gardens were in colourful full bloom and you almost couldn’t help but to wander
among the gnomes and stand on the famous steps quietly performing the song to yourself.
The next day, on a musical high, I decided to find out more about Salzburg’s other contribution to music. The city was the birthplace of prodigious composer Mozart and at Hagenauer Haus, his former home
which is now a museum, I learned more about him. I marvelled at how while still only a child he produced beautiful music on the tiny instruments – a violin, clavichord and fortepiano – which stood before me.
Feeling peckish I decided it was time to discover the most traditional of Salzburg’s delights. Forget schnitzel and bratwurst, at grand 19th century Sacher Hotel, set on the banks of the River Salzach there’s only one
thing you have to try from the menu. In luxurious surroundings of old-world opulence traditionally-attired waiters serve their renowned cake, the world famous Sacher torte with steaming cups of coffee. This delicious chocolate cake is moist beyond belief – a delight with every mouthful. It’s easy to see why its recipe is a muchguarded secret. You can have chocolate cake anywhere, but you can only really have
Sacher torte at the Sacher Hotel.
Suitably refreshed I headed for my afternoon Bavarian Mountains coach tour and a four hour trip though some of the most spectacular scenery Austria and Germany have to offer. As we headed out on to the
Alpenstrasse or Alps Road, once again I watched in awe as nature in all her glory humbled me.
I only noticed we had crossed the border into Germany when we arrived at the Eagle’s Nest, the infamous retreat of Adolf Hitler high up in the mountains of Berchtesgaden. The long and winding mountain road up to the Eagle’s Nest, which now acts as a Second World War memorial, is an impressive piece of engineering but it did little for my nerves. Once off the bus I strolled into the long and imposing tunnel which leads to a brass lift that took me to the summit. The scenery is strikingly beautiful with majestic views over the
Alps, Tyrol and Bavaria.
Next stop was the salt mines in Berchtesgaden where the whole tour group donned white overalls and had a whale of a time on a train ride into the mountain, before sliding down to an old miner’s slide and taking
a raft ride on the salt lake.
After the excitement it was time for the peace and beauty of Königssee Lake. Engulfed by mountains the lake offered the calmest of settings as the boats there are powered by electricity. It was total quiet and relaxation
surrounded by yet more spectacular scenery. Here, amidst this alpine serenity, I found a piece of heaven on earth.
RCI has 20 resorts in Austria, including two Mondi resorts close to Salzburg.
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