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Palau: Land Before The Hand Of Man
December 26, 2009 by Fractional & Shared Ownership Property News & Reviews · Leave a Comment
Few places on earth can match the astonishing natural beauty of Palau. With a population of 20,000, it is a paradise with more than 500 densely tree-covered islands of which only nine are inhabited. Once the scene of horrific battles
during World War II, nature was the ultimate winner. Dense vegetation has covered the war scars on land and the sea is slowly wearing away the downed WWII planes including the “George Bush Wreck,” the first President Bush’s plane.
Today pristine Palau looks like the “Land Before the Hand of Man.”
Palau’s Rock Islands, relics of ancient coral reefs, are one of the world’s most unique phenomena. The largely uninhabited, mushroom-shaped islets are located in a vast lagoon that is a habitat for one of the world’s greatest concentrations of coral and marine life. The islands may be green, but the waters around the islands are so many beautiful shades of blue it is breathtaking. The blue starfish and the blue Napoleon wrasse share the waters with other colorful tropical fish, black-tip reef sharks, sea turtles, giant clams and coral of all colors.
Most unique among the wonders of Palau is Jellyfish Lake. After a boat ride to an island there is a short but steep climb up, then down, the ridge that isolates the hidden lake. In this intriguing lake the jellyfish have flourished and lost their sting because they have not had to fight off predators. Snorkeling with the translucent, pale pink jellyfish is like being part of an underwater ballet. On the way the tourist boats usually stops at the Milky Way, a narrow stretch of water
between two rock islands. The guide dives in, scoops up a handful of the white sand that is as soft as cold cream, and encourages people to slather it all over their body, claiming it has rejuvenating qualities.
Snorkeling, scuba diving, and fishing are all over-the-top activities with more than 1,400 species of fish and 500 species of coral. It is easy to understand why Palau is often referred to as both the Eighth Natural Wonder of the World and One of the Seven Underwater Wonders of the World. Land-based tours explore remote areas that have been changed little by the hand of man. The Sense of Wonder Eco Tour is an environmental and educational program that includes kayaking through the mangrove forests that serve as a nursery for a plethora of land and sea creatures. At the start of the tour a sprouted coconut found lying on the ground is split open and the coconut meat, which has turned spongy, is applied to exposed body parts. It is the time-honored traditional method to prevent sunburns and keep the mosquitoes at bay.
Quietly kayaking through the primeval-looking mangrove it is possible to hear a bird that imitates the call of a monkey and spot the large fruit bat hanging out waiting for nighttime. A short trail in the mangrove leads to a place where,
according to Palauan legend, the taro goddess brought back samples from the taro patches she created on the various islands. The goddess placed them in the area where she got married and the taro turned to stone. The tour includes an expansive lunch featuring a variety of delicious items made from the taro plant.
Kayaking with Sense of Wonder Eco Tours
The Jungle River Boat Cruise is another eco-friendly tour that starts with a nature walk through the jungle stopping to see the Gorilla Arm Tree and learn about the Noni Tree, the fruit of which is said to cure just about everything. There are carnivorous picture plants, 23 varieties of orchids, and ancient fern trees. As the riverboat plies the Ngerdorch River, crocodiles sunning themselves on a spit of land slip into the water and kingfishers burst up out of the vegetation.
Other jungle treks explore more of the wonders of Palau including beautiful Ngardmau Waterfall, one of the republic’s
largest. For a taste of culture there are traditional men’s houses, mysterious stone monoliths, Yap stone money, cultural shows, and local crafts.
Palau was “green” long before green became fashionable. Realizing the environment is their greatest asset, they continue to preserve and protect their Eden. A good example this dedication to the environment is Carp Island Resort, where they have started their own farm. The pigs, chickens, tomatoes and egg plants, along with the fruit trees, will provide guests with fresh food. Filtered water from the mangrove is used for shower and toilets; they are looking into the feasibility of wind or solar power.
Palau is an iconic tropical Pacific island unspoiled by rampant commercialization. It truly looks like a land before the hand of man. For more information check www.visit-palau.com.
Ann Singeo, owner of Sense of Wonder Eco Tours, prepares a taro-based lunch after a kayak tour through the mangrove
Fish and Taro
“The taro plant is very important to the Palauan people,” explained Ann Singeo, the owner of Sense of Wonder eco tours, to my husband John and me. “The legend of Palau is based on food. A simple version of the legend has it that a giant by the name of Uab was consuming all the food so the rest of the people were starving. The villagers placed him in a fire; he exploded, and created the islands of Palau.”
During our kayak tour of the mangrove, we pulled our kayaks up on land and a short hike took us to a where Ann explained another Palauan legend. The taro goddess brought back samples from the taro patches she had created on the various islands. Pointing to upright stones, Ann said, “These are the taro plants planted by the goddess. Over the years they turned to stone.” We were totally unfamiliar with taro, a root that is an important source of food for Palauans. The taro patches are the exclusive domain of women probably because they have to wade in deep mud, sometime above their waist, to harvest the plants so they often work nude. At the end of the tour Ann had prepared a lunch that included taro soup and taro salad.
The Rock Islands of Palau are a paradise for divers and snorkelers. John and I were dazzled by the brilliant blue starfish and the giant clams. On our return from a snorkeling tour with Fish ‘n Fins the talk turned to food, Tova Harel, the owner of Fish n’ Fins (www.fishnfins.com), said if we returned for dinner she and Cesar, her chef, would show us how to prepare fish and some taro recipes. It was an offer we could not refuse.
When we were in Palau in March 2009 we loved the half-day tour and lunch ($75) with Sense of Wonder (you can reach them at annsingeo@ yahoo.com). Our cooking experience ($25) was an impromptu favor extended by Tova Harel (who also is the author of Taste of Rainbow’s End), but one she will provide for other tourists. — Sandra Scott
Recipes
Taro Rosti
4 purple taro (or red potatoes)
1 medium onion
1 teaspoon salt
1 /2 teaspoon pepper
1 to 2 tablespoons of oil
Grate taro and onion.
Add salt and pepper.
Mix and form into hamburger shape.
Fry in oil until golden brown.
Broiled Fish
4 lb. grouper or similar fish – scaled and gutted
3 sliced garlic cloves
Several slices of fresh ginger
3 tablespoons of sesame oil
3 tablespoons of soy sauce
1 large banana leaf (optional or corn husks may be substituted)
Score the fish.
Put a slice of garlic, ginger, and a lime leaf in each score and a few inside the fish.
Drizzle sesame oil and soy sauce on banana leaf and inside the fish. Loosely wrap fish in tinfoil.
Grill about 15 minutes until the meat is white and flaky.
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