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Catching the Tube
December 20, 2009 by Fractional & Shared Ownership Property News & Reviews · Leave a Comment
For British travel writer Angela West, Monday mornings usually mean that it’s time again for that dreaded, daily commute. This time, though, she’s about to catch a tube of a very different variety. With beautiful beaches and uncrowded waves – along with great weather, food and friendly people – the Algarve’s favorable climatic conditions make it ideal for a first-time surfing destination.
Boasting a mild Mediterranean climate and a winter water temperature of around 59° F, rising to 72° F come summertime, surfing conditions along Portugal’s rugged Atlantic coastline are among the best in the world. At the heart of Europe’s surfing scene, there are more waves and secret spots here than you can shake your board at, making the Algarve a magnet for rookies and hardcore surfers alike.
Put on the surfing map when local surf culture kicked off in the 1970s, Portugal’s first surf shop, Aleeda, opened in 1980 and early boards made here were called Lipsticks. Surf competitions started here in 1977, culminating in a huge party of seafood, wine and spirits, hosted by the city of Ericeira, while the first international competition was held in Peniche.
Nowadays, Portugal plays host to numerous international competitions attended by world-class surfers, such as ASP (Association of Surfing Professionals), EPSA (European Professional Surfing Association) and the World Tour. Big competitions are held at Ericeira and Figueira da Foz in September/ October, while in the Algarve, a lower-starred
event takes place at Praia do Amado every July. Famous pros can be seen hanging out in their hometown areas, where they surf with their mates, just as they did when they started out.
Good for Beginners, Too
But what if you’re a beginner after a piece of the action? I’ve always dreamt of riding those waves and head to the ancient coastal town of Lagos to spend a week at The Surf Experience, a company which has been running for 17 years:
“We were the first in the Algarve and possibly the first lifestyle-geared company in Europe, because on top of teaching, we do tours for already accomplished surfers and help with arrangements for eating out and making friends,” Toby Millage, the company’s managing director, tells me. Beautiful, open beaches and uncrowded waves, along with great weather, good food and friendly people are all part of the appeal. With views of spectacular beaches and a variety of restaurants and shops on its doorstep, we’re welcomed at the comfortable surf house by Toby’s team of qualified British Surf Association lifeguards and instructors, with the guarantee that: “Everyone will be surfing or leave at a better standard by the end of your stay. The emphasis is on fun and meeting others from around the world.”
Catering for all levels, from beginner to expert, Toby says the Algarve’s particularly suitable for those starting from scratch: “Conditions here are great for the first stages of learning. In the South, the most popular beach is Praia do Amado with its large, protected bay offering lots of space and gentle, rolling white water and a nice, sandy bottom.”
He says there are quality waves along the whole coast: “The Algarve’s West coast is renowned for its dramatic cliffs and sheer drops into perfect surf beaches. Spots like Ericeira and Arrifana are more consistent due to their geographical set-up, with a solid base beneath the waves, giving constant shape rather than having the moving sand banks that make other spots changeable.” Hmm… sounds a bit technical. “The Atlantic’s very active with low pressure constantly swirling around, delivering swell to our doorstep allyear-round,” he explains.
“The coast is littered with classic 4×4 dirt tracks and fire breaks. The South coast, and Meia Praia in particular, has amazing blueflagged beaches with cosmopolitan and fresh beach bars and crystal clear waters. The most popular beaches in this area are Praia do Amado, Arrifana, Cordoama and Tonel. Higher up the coast, favorites include Peniche, Ericeira, Figueira do Foz and Praia Grande.”
At 9:00 a.m. the next day, four-wheel-drive vehicles take us to cliff-tops overlooking the beaches to establish which have the best swell for beginners. Down on the beach, on go the wetsuits and the lessons commence. “It’s an easy sport. It’s not hard to pick up,” Toby says. Reassured by his words, I grab a big, foam beginner’s board which, I’m informed, is very buoyant and therefore picks up waves very easily. Another bonus is that if it ever hits you (however unlikely), it’s not going to hurt like a fiberglass board would.
Although the surfing world is male-dominated, more and more females are taking to the water. This is reflected in the group, which also is mixed in terms of nationality and age. Toby says the number of females his outfit caters to has risen 60% in the past few years.
Out in the Water
We’re instructed to lie flat on our stomachs on our boards and learn how to paddle… arms very straight, reaching out and back. Once we’ve got the flow, we’re taught how to jump onto the board in one fluid movement. Pushing up with my arms, I hop eagerly on board. The knack is to do this motion as smoothly as possible. Now it’s time to get the feel of the board in the sea. We lie on our boards and bob around, simply letting the gentle waves lap us about. As the group’s confidence grows, we venture further out. Within an hour, I’m up and balancing on the board, if only briefly.
But I feel triumphant, despite being a little exhausted! I’m now getting an idea of why surfers are so passionate about their sport – it really is quite exhilarating. We practice for a couple of hours, break for lunch, then spend a few more hours in the water before it’s time to call it a day and stretch out. The summer months bring gentle waves of three to five feet, perfect for beginners, although it’s still possible to learn in the winter. But Toby warns it can get big and dangerous out there: “Any big swell can wrap around to various small bays. The West coast in the Algarve can’t really handle much more than 8 foot to 10 foot anywhere, but in the Lisbon area there are a few big wave spots where you have to be a good surfer, aware of your surroundings and your own abilities,” he says.
“Never go out somewhere out of your league as you’ll do yourself some damage and create a dangerous situation for others.” His advice is to always head to a beach that has lifeguards: “All instructors should be qualified at lifesaving.
Always ask.”
At the organized dinners and BBQ’s, I socialize with my fellow surfers, picking up tips along the way: “In winter, the waves are massive. There are reef breaks, so you must be careful and choose the right areas if you’re a beginner,” advises one guy. That’s what Toby’s team of qualified British Surf Association lifeguards and instructors are here for, and to watch out for those urchins and sharp rocks!
So what gives surfers that unique buzz? “It’s kind of all-encompassing. It makes you feel alive … relaxed … excited … triggering every emotion,” says one of the guys. One woman came here to escape the stresses of work in the UK: “Nothing bothers you when you’re out there. Problems disappear. You’re free, not thinking about anything else. There are no rules, just freedom.” Said another Brit: “I get on the tube to work and I’m thinking, ‘Is this the only tube you’re
gonna get?’ Don’t you know what it’s about? I’ve experienced it. I feel so lucky.” “There’s a saying, ‘only a surfer knows the feeling,’” says Toby. “Gliding down a watery face with exhilarating speed, only a natural force pushing you. I can’t live without it!”
Surfers make a habit of moving around the coast, tracking down the best waves for some surf action. I pick up my board and go in search of that perfect wave…
For more information:
The Surf Experience
Rua dos Ferreiros
No 21, 8600 Lagos
Algarve, Portugal
Tel: + 351 282 761943
Email: enquire@surf-experience.com
Website: www.surf-experience.com
You can try a “taster” lesson on one of the Surf Experience’s daytrips for €45 a day. This includes kit, lesson and lunch.
Surfer Lingo
TUBE – A breaking wave with a hollow space inside
6 FOOT OFFSHORE & GLASSY – The classic surf condition
WHITEWATER – The area in which surfers learn; after the wave has broken
WIRED – Figure out exactly how a particular wave breaks
CUTBACK – A redirected turn into the pocket of a wave
RADICAL – An extreme maneuver
STOKED – A very happy surfer
GOIN´OFF – It’s really bloody good!!
GNARLY – Extreme!
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